On the way to Munich's Oktoberfest awhile back we stopped for a couple hours in Ulm whose cathedral is famous for having the world's tallest church spire.
The spire is a fairly modern construction, completed in the late 1800s specifically to outdo the towers of the cathedral in Cologne. The lower floors are much more historic with lots to admire during your visit if, like me, you feel a touch of vertigo!
The spire of Ulm Minster may be a recent addition, but the cathedral foundations are very old and there is plenty of interest to catch your eye on the ground floor. Faded paintings adorn the walls, surprising details decorate ornate ironwork, whilst light filters through a mix of modern and medieval stained glass windows.
The choir stalls feature a series of carved wooden busts paired off and with animated expressions as if caught gossipping. Apparently each pair includes one pagan and one Christian figure, so if anything they are probably debating one another.
Duck into a side chapel to see a small but detailed old window depicting Judgement Day, with souls condemned to enter the mouth of Hell.
Now, for someone with no head for heights you would think climbing church towers would be my idea of hell, but I've gladly trotted up every one going. Some are a doddle, thanks to enclosed stairwells or broad steps or even a lift and the views are always worth the adventure.
But tackling the tallest church spire in the world, now that's different. At Ulm you ascend a tight spiral, with a window every few steps. Then the windows become more frequent and the glass is replaced by wire mesh. Suddenly it's a lot more...er, breezy!
It didn't feel like we were climbing the stairs of a stout building, it felt more like we were in a tiny column. The stone handrail is puny, so there's not much to grab onto either. My palms are sweating again even now.
Halfway up is a large balcony encircling the tower for astounding views. There are many interesting buildings around the town to admire and, as the guidebooks say, you get a close-up look at the stonework of the spire. Too close for my liking!
A room in the tower shows photos of other great cathedrals like St Pauls, Strausborg and Cologne as if to say 'Yes, they are all nice, but ours is taller so nyah-nyah!' You can peer down a portal and see the bells 100 feet under your shoes, with another portal below them showing the cathedral floor.
And only halfway up!
With only another 300 or so steps to go to the very very top, I felt we'd gone far enough. If you are freaked out at all by heights or tight spaces, DO NOT attempt the climb. Luckily, there are detours along the way if like me you want to bail and head back!
Elsewhere in town are ruined fortifications along the Danube, the decorated old town hall, some quaint back streets in the old fishing quarter and a postmodern new city hall which make the town a worthwhile visit for a couple hours at least.
Ulm has an old, pretty town hall around the corner from the Munster which has a lovely fountain out front. Heading down the cobbles from here towards the blue Danube, you'll see some old fortifications and towers. You can stroll atop the top of an old wall that runs along the river for a bit, admiring the lovely houses and gardens here.
We pulled off at one point when we saw a sign for a tavern and heard the gurgling of a stream. There are several channels of the Blau River coursing through the old fishing and shipbuilding district here, called the Fischerviertel. All paths seem to lead to the charming old half-timbered house you'll see on all the postcards.
Festooned with geraniums, it leans over the stream as if getting ready to dive in for a quick dip!
The choir stalls feature a series of carved wooden busts paired off and with animated expressions as if caught gossipping. Apparently each pair includes one pagan and one Christian figure, so if anything they are probably debating one another.
Duck into a side chapel to see a small but detailed old window depicting Judgement Day, with souls condemned to enter the mouth of Hell.
Now, for someone with no head for heights you would think climbing church towers would be my idea of hell, but I've gladly trotted up every one going. Some are a doddle, thanks to enclosed stairwells or broad steps or even a lift and the views are always worth the adventure.But tackling the tallest church spire in the world, now that's different. At Ulm you ascend a tight spiral, with a window every few steps. Then the windows become more frequent and the glass is replaced by wire mesh. Suddenly it's a lot more...er, breezy!
It didn't feel like we were climbing the stairs of a stout building, it felt more like we were in a tiny column. The stone handrail is puny, so there's not much to grab onto either. My palms are sweating again even now.
Halfway up is a large balcony encircling the tower for astounding views. There are many interesting buildings around the town to admire and, as the guidebooks say, you get a close-up look at the stonework of the spire. Too close for my liking!
A room in the tower shows photos of other great cathedrals like St Pauls, Strausborg and Cologne as if to say 'Yes, they are all nice, but ours is taller so nyah-nyah!' You can peer down a portal and see the bells 100 feet under your shoes, with another portal below them showing the cathedral floor.
And only halfway up!With only another 300 or so steps to go to the very very top, I felt we'd gone far enough. If you are freaked out at all by heights or tight spaces, DO NOT attempt the climb. Luckily, there are detours along the way if like me you want to bail and head back!
Elsewhere in town are ruined fortifications along the Danube, the decorated old town hall, some quaint back streets in the old fishing quarter and a postmodern new city hall which make the town a worthwhile visit for a couple hours at least.
Ulm has an old, pretty town hall around the corner from the Munster which has a lovely fountain out front. Heading down the cobbles from here towards the blue Danube, you'll see some old fortifications and towers. You can stroll atop the top of an old wall that runs along the river for a bit, admiring the lovely houses and gardens here.
We pulled off at one point when we saw a sign for a tavern and heard the gurgling of a stream. There are several channels of the Blau River coursing through the old fishing and shipbuilding district here, called the Fischerviertel. All paths seem to lead to the charming old half-timbered house you'll see on all the postcards.
Festooned with geraniums, it leans over the stream as if getting ready to dive in for a quick dip!
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