Loitering with intent in Lisbon 16

We enjoyed another fun meal at a Moroccan restaurant called Flor da Laranja ('orange blossom') which is a one-woman operation in the fashionable Barrio Alto neighbourhood. We hadn't made reservations so we stopped by fairly early to ensure a seat, but even at 7pm it was still shut.

There are plenty of bars nearby so we had a quick drink. Along with the adjacent shopping streets of the Chiado district, this hill to the west of Rossio Square is the nicest place in town to spend an evening. Apparently on a balmy night you can hardly move in the streets for all the people spilling out of the wine bars, tapas places and nightspots...but on a cool, drizzly November night it was much more subdued. For most of the week we had cooked for ourselves to save our pennies, but on our next trip to Lisbon we'll be sure to spend more time here. 

Back at Flor da Laranja, the doors were open and we were the third party for the night. With a large group celebrating a birthday coming in behind us, the place was nearly full. The restaurant is one small room that seats maybe 20 people, most of whom are invited to make themselves comfortable among the cushions which sit atop benches lining the walls. As well as the traditional seating, the room is filled with mirrors and lanterns, and is mostly lit by candlelight.  

With the friendly owner taking orders, dishing up food and serving everyone, it felt like she had invited us in to her home for a meal with friends. Apparently she has been running the place on her own for about 20 years; she definitely knows her stuff, because at the moment her restaurant is in TripAdvisor's top 30 for the city.

We ordered beer (which for a change was Sagres instead of the ubiquitous Super Bock) and our starters followed soon after, stuffed vine leaves and something that reminded me of samosas: little crispy pastry pockets. Some were stuffed with fragrant and spicy vegetables, others stuffed with chicken and lightly sprinkled with powdered sugar. Combining savoury meat with sweetness or fruit is a Moroccan tradition, so our lamb tagine was packed with prunes while the lemon chicken was served with a poached pear dusted with cinnamon. 

Before we could tuck in we were presented with several side platters, one after another, until the tiled tabletop disappeared under a spread of terra cotta dishes. All the sides were vegetarian: roast sweet potato in a sticky honey sauce with plump raisins and cinnamon, green beans in a spicy tomato sauce, spinach dressed with lemon, slices of sweet roast aubergine and more. Every bite was delicious and despite the generous servings we didn't leave a single morsel behind.

As the evening grew late, the entertainment took to the floor: a veiled belly dancer. She started with a slow and seductive number, followed by a more lively routine that had her whirling around in her veils with everyone clapping along. There was no threat of audience participation (not yet, at least) but we weren't going to take a chance to find out. During a break we asked for the bill and took off before being invited to take a twirl ourselves. Altogether our meal came to €45 which was an unbelievable price to pay for such large portions of tasty homemade food and some entertainment to boot.

Again, I didn't have a camera with me, but I hope you enjoy these miscellaneous shots of mine from elsewhere in Lisbon. Click back next time to hear about another art gallery and a trip out of town before we move on to Barcelona!