Loitering with intent in Lisbon 18

It's nearly time to pack our bags and head for the airport, so for our last full day in Lisbon we spent the afternoon at what many call one of Europe's best (yet perhaps least-known) private collections of fine art.

Calouste Gulbenkian was a British-educated Armenian who made his fortune in the Middle East oil fields. He filled his Parisian mansion with art  before moving to Lisbon during World War II. Here he continued to collect art, including pieces which the Soviets sold from the Hermitage (such as Catherine the Great's silverware). He died in 1955 and over the years since, his fortune has been used to develop a large cultural complex in landscaped gardens which are an attraction in and of themselves.

The museum turned out to be surprisingly compact but quite varied, although with perhaps too much space devoted to immense Turkish carpets and geometric Moorish tiles. Despite his motto ('only the best'), he also overdosed on bland French painting and sculpture.

Highlights for us included several canvasses by Turner, Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Hals and Burne-Jones. Apparently the museum can only display less than a fifth of the entire collection at any one time.

One room was filled with Art Nouveau glass designed by Lalique. Having never really had the chance before to examine his work before and only  knowing him for his dragonfly jewelry, I was struck by the beauty he found elsewhere in nature with other animals like rats, lizards and parakeets.

Back outside, the lush gardens surrounding the museum were playing host to a photo exhibition, with large images stood among the pools of water, gushing streams and outdoor ampitheatre which are to be found between the fine art gallery and the modern art collection next door. We passed on this second gallery and headed home for sandwiches, crisps and the last of the packing.

Tomorrow, our flight to Barcelona, but click back in the meantime for some practical tips on visiting Lisbon.