GR8 2CU BCN: Modernista masterpieces

For all the charms of the Ramblas, most any deviation from the avenue will take you into a confusing labyrinth of narrow streets, some of which are best avoided at night or when walking alone. Don't worry if the walls start closing in and you feel claustrophobic, there's always the airy Eixample neighbourhood with its broad shady streets laid out on a strict grid system.

Returning to the Placa de Catalunya, you will see a number of streets veering off in all directions. One of these, Rambla de Catalunya, is an extension of the Ramblas but with much more street traffic, which discourages most tourists from venturing down it. Running alongside one block over is Passeig de Gracia, the city's premier shopping area, with an abundance of high-end boutiques and department stores that make it feel like a Mediterranean Kensington.

For those of us on a shoestring budget, you would think its attractions are rather limited, but among the bank buildings and ritzy restaurants can be found some of the city's finest architecture, including several world-famous Modernista masterpieces. The Modernista style of architecture was the Catalans' own refinement of Art Nouveau as epitomised by the designs of Antoni Gaudi, whose finest monument is the as-yet-unfinished Sagrada Familia church. For devotees of his style, a stroll down Passeig de Gracia is a must.

First stop is the 'block of discord' which earned its nickname thanks to the efforts of several notable architects who competed over the space of a decade to build the most unique buildings possible for their wealthy clients.

Of these, Gaudi's Casa Batllo is the most bizarre, with its humpbacked tiled roof, balconies which are reminiscent of skulls and massive windows that look like the gaping mouth of a cave. Locals call it 'the house of bones.'

All this is tempered by a shimmering multi-coloured mosaic which ripples across the facade like waterlilies on a pond.

With all this to admire, we hardly noticed Casa Amatller next door,

while poor Casa Leo Morera didn't register at all. Sorry, I'm sure they did their best, but Gaudi steals the show!

Even when designing an apartment block Gaudi stayed true to his distinct themes, combing both organic and religious elements into the building. One theory is that Gaudi's unifying idea here was the slaying of the dragon by St George, with the undulating roof representing the back of a giant lizard and the slim tower which juts up from it (topped by a cross) signifying the saint's spear. Apparently the inside of the building has even more references to fantastical mythology, like a grand staircase whose banister is carved to resemble the spine of a great beast. You will have to see it for yourself, because with an admission charge of €20 per person (even more than Sagrada Familia), we felt we couldn't afford a visit at the time.

Luckily there is another famous building by Gaudi only a few blocks further along which allows free access to at least some of its interior.

Casa Mila is better known as La Pedrera, or 'the quarry' because of its massive bulk and bare, rough hewn facade.

Another of Gaudi's apartment buildings, this one was designed to accommodate a new-fangled invention called the automobile and when finished in 1912 had an underground car park for its residents.

Unlike Casa Batllo, it is free to walk inside and see at least part of the building.

Behind these stark gates is a delightful enclosed courtyard

with ceilings enlivened by a colourful floral motif

which are supported by graceful columns,

lit by elegant windows

and feature beautifully carved wooden doors.

You are welcome to climb the stairs and visit a large space which hosts a changing selection of art and cultural programmes, plus gives you an idea of what it's like for residents to peer out the windows onto the street below. When we visited the exhibition focused on sketches, photographs and video of stone, mountains and rock in keeping with the 'quarry' setting.

Thanks no doubt to its grim exterior and rather dim interior, the building is most admired for its rooftop terrace where the tops of ventilation shafts cluster together like regiments of soldiers standing at attention, mosaics sparkle in the sun and tremendous views can be yours...if you're willing to pay the rather stonking admission fee of €16 per person. Again, we couldn't afford to pay a visit, preferring to spend our money on hot tapas and cold cava!

Speaking of which, anyone else hungry? Click back again soon as we tuck into some of Barcelona's finest food, plus I'll show you where you can explore yet another of Gaudi's fantastical creations, this time for free.

IF YOU GO Casa Batllo and the rest of the 'block of discord' sit atop the Passeig de Gracia metro station, which is only a 5-minute walk from Placa de Catalunya. Casa Mila, a further 10-minute walk, is very close to the Diagonal metro station. In another 20 minutes, you can walk from Casa Mila to Sagrada Familia. Being on the street, the buildings can be admired for free day or night (when spotlights throw amazing shadows on Casa Mila).