Loitering with intent in Lisbon 10

The tram line to Belem passes a jumble of warehouses, docks and railway tracks as well as threading through the columns that support a mighty bridge crossing the river. Most everyone obligingly hopped off when they saw the sign for the Belem tram stop, although I knew from checking maps earlier that it was better to stay on board a couple more stops (the Belem tram stop itself is near the local train station and little else). Despite being closer to the harbourside attractions by staying on board a bit longer, access to the river was not easy as it is behind railway tracks and a busy road, but we found an overpass soon enough.

First stop was the Tower of Belem, a 100-foot tall fortress which celebrates its 500-year anniversary in 2013.

We found out the hard way that the tower is shut on Mondays, but that didn't stop us and plenty of other people from milling around and having a closer look. The structure looks rather whimsical for a fortress, with delicate carvings which include stone ropes that encircle the entire building.

In this photo you can even see a knot in the rope!

One brave boy rapped his knuckles on the main door and it was whipped open by a sour-faced woman (perhaps the cleaner) who chewed him out. We did return later in the week for a look inside, so click back again soon to find out whether it was worth the wait.

Walking upriver, the shoreline had little in common with the sparkling waterfront at Parque das Nações with its gardens, pavilions and artworks. Here instead were empty lots, weeds, car parks and closed nightclubs.

Reflecting in a stagnant pool was the Monument to the Discoveries, with a legion of explorers and navigators parading up its sides.

For €2.50 each we took the lift to the narrow viewing platform at the top which is barely wide enough to accommodate two people; we waited our turn to see the large map of the world on the pavement below.

Further afield was the concrete mess we had walked through...

...a new art museum which caught our eye...

...and the Jeronimos monastery beyond a fountain and gardens.

It would have taken an age to wait for the lift so we took the stairs down. Along the way we saw  signs for the 'snack area'...

...plus an auditorium which promised an audio-visual extravaganza but which had tape across its doors like it was a crime scene. We felt a bit ripped-off being charged full price for what amounted to a 5-minute look-see. People were queueing out the door for the ticketing window on the ground floor and I was tempted to tell them 'save your money'.

Along with the Tower of Belem, the Jeronimos monastery has UNESCO World Heritage status, but like the tower it is also shut on a Monday. With practically everything closed, why were there still so many people wandering around? Our noses soon caught a whiff of something sweet, spicy and enticing. There, past the coach car parks and next door to the monastery, we found everyone congregating outside the doors to Antiga Confeitaria de Belem, the city's most famous bakery.

New Yorkers have their bagels and Parisians their croissants. In Lisbon, the favourite local delicacy are small custard tarts called pasteis de Belem. It's no coincidence the bakery is alongside the monastery: nuns needed egg whites to starch their wimples, so for centuries the leftover egg yolks have been used to make crispy custard tarts. The monastery had its own sugar cane refinery and of course the 'age of discovery' with its trade routes to the Spice Islands meant there has long been a steady supply of cinnamon.

If they look a bit scorched, don't worry, it takes a very hot oven to keep the pastry crunchy yet flaky. Our box of four tarts, with sachets of sugar and cinnamon, came to €3.80 and really hit the spot.

It may be a long way to travel for a snack, but it wasn't a wasted trip because the art gallery across the street was open and free to visit. Click back next time for a look inside.