The best of London 5 - breakfast

Imagine a cold Sunday morning. Though the sun is shining, the streets are empty as Londoners sleep off their nights out or, who knows, go to church. Anyway, everything is shut.

But what's this wonderful aroma wafting across the pavement? And are those awnings really open? Do you see a light on? If the address is 28 Greek Street in Soho then you've found one of the city's finest French patisseries, Maison Bertaux.

We stepped in to find most of the tables covered with trays of fresh baked pastries cooling off from the oven. Can you imagine the smell and sight of that greeting you when you've yet to have your first cup of coffee? Heaven!

A tray was whisked off a table so we could sit (what, those aren't all ours?). We each ordered a coffee. The classic plain croissant was crisp, chewy and hot from the oven, while the pain au chocolat was enormous. They also do croissants with sliced ham and cheese baked in for a French-style all-in-one breakfast.

Table for two, croissants for one

The interior is a divine pink fantasy of kitsch bits and shabby chic. As we sat there numerous expats came through the door for their morning pastry bagged up to take away. The staff were friendly and seemed to know everyone who came through the door.

One of each, please!

Now the bad news...the coffee was only okay and the prices are scandalous, even for London. For two coffees and two pastries we paid £8, way back in 2005, so it’s likely to be even more dear now. That's about 13 American dollars, sheesh.

The patisserie is just as welcoming in the evening. On our last trip back we had an evening sojourn with some moist fruit tart (oooh, er) in the upstairs lounge which, judging by the light fixtures, they haven't decorated since the 1960s. Save your shillings to treat yourself here, each slice of cake was £3.50.

INFO The nearest tube stop is Leicester Square (Northern and Piccadilly lines). The patisserie is near the east end of Old Compton Street where it intersects with Charing Cross Road .Greek Street runs parallel to Charing Cross Road - head to the lower end and you'll find Maison Bertaux between the Three Greyhounds and Coach & Horses pubs. Open 8.30am-8pm daily.