With much publicity, including a spot on BBC news no less, a budget hotel has opened in London. And it is big news, because as I've mentioned before, it takes a lot of effort to find a hotel room for under £75/night in London that isn't a flea-bitten flophouse.
Promising 5-star beds at 1-star prices, Tune Hotels have properties across Malaysia and promise rapid expansion in Britain. With the 2012 Olympics right around the corner, Tune has plans for over a dozen hotels across the city.
Taking a cue from the no-frills business model which has revolutionised air travel, Tune offers a basic product with numerous extras at a cost. You need a towel? You can rent one for £1.50. Want to watch TV? Yours for £3 a day. You need the room cleaned during your stay? That's £7.50.
How about a chair, wardrobe, telephone or desk? Tough. The room is just big enough for a double bed and tiny bathroom, so there's no furniture. Some rooms don't even have a window (that's another £5 - seriously).
And in another page out of the no-frills rule book, there is its misleading location. For now, Tune has one London site, advertised as 'Westminster' which in my mind conjures images of the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben and Westminster Abbey. In fact, it's across the river in Lambeth, about a mile from Parliament Square but almost on top of a tube station.
Finally, there's the pricing policy. Rooms 'from' £35, the website trumpets. Just like the no-frills airlines, advance booking is required for this rate and weekends are excluded. My test booking for a weekend stay in October offered 2 nights in a basic room for £130, while for a midweek stay in March a windowless cell could be mine for £40.
Personally, I don't think I'll be singing along to this Tune anytime soon!
Showing posts with label London. Show all posts
Showing posts with label London. Show all posts
Monday, 30 August 2010
Thursday, 12 August 2010
The best of London: bargain theatre nights
As I've explained before, half the drama of a theatre night in London is buying tickets that don't cost a bundle. Prime seats at a popular production on a weekend night are typically sold out weeks in advance, mainly because of the glorified ticket touts who operate the ticket agencies you'll see all around Leicester Square.
Most tickets start around £40 for an evening performance and you can easily end up spending twice as much for a decent seat.
So I was interested to see this promotion running which offers £25 seats to a range of West End productions for the next few weeks. I was surprised to see acclaimed shows like Sweet Charity, The 39 Steps and Legally Blonde on offer.
A couple of test bookings indicates there seems to be good availability. Meal and hotel packages are available as well. Before booking that theatre weekend, bear all this in mind:-
Most tickets start around £40 for an evening performance and you can easily end up spending twice as much for a decent seat.
So I was interested to see this promotion running which offers £25 seats to a range of West End productions for the next few weeks. I was surprised to see acclaimed shows like Sweet Charity, The 39 Steps and Legally Blonde on offer.
A couple of test bookings indicates there seems to be good availability. Meal and hotel packages are available as well. Before booking that theatre weekend, bear all this in mind:-
- Theatres are quiet this time of year because it's hot, school's out and most people would rather be on the beach. London theatres are antiquated (the newest one in the West End is over 70 years old), so air conditioning is not that common.
- Most shows have black-out periods when promotional tickets cannot be purchased (only a few shows are available Saturday nights).
- A booking charge of £3 applies to each order, even if you want the tickets waiting for you at the theatre's will-call desk.
- You are not able to choose your own seats for all the shows and you might not even be shown where they are on a seating plan. Before buying the tickets offered to you, go to the theatre's own website to view the seating plan and be wary of anything with an obscured view.
Thursday, 15 July 2010
Getting stuffed in London
I've been reading the results of a highly unscientific poll from the good folks at Tripadvisor.com which says tourists in London can expect to eat the worst food in Europe.
The survey goes on to name London as the most expensive city for European tourists, plus calls Birmingham the most boring big city in Europe. No argument there!
I have to agree, London has too many places that serve overpriced plates of stodge which are served up by sullen wait staff in less than convivial surroundings.
Which is why if you want some delicious food which is both fresh and affordable, check out my 'best of London' blog posts.
The survey goes on to name London as the most expensive city for European tourists, plus calls Birmingham the most boring big city in Europe. No argument there!
I have to agree, London has too many places that serve overpriced plates of stodge which are served up by sullen wait staff in less than convivial surroundings.
Which is why if you want some delicious food which is both fresh and affordable, check out my 'best of London' blog posts.
Monday, 13 July 2009
The worst of London 3 - West End theatre
Since the time of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre, London has been one of the world's great cities for drama. Step into some London theatres though and you might wonder if they date back to Shakespeare's days.
Most London theatres are in fact Victorian, when the majority of the population must have been malnourished dwarves. So expect cramped seating, inadequate toilet facilities, miniscule bars, plus railings that will conspire to block your view from the balcony no matter how you contort yourself. The most modern West End theatre was built in 1937!
On top of this is that fact that most productions these days are stale retreads of Hollywood movies or desperate cash-ins. Shawshank Redemption anyone? If not, how about Grease, Priscilla Queen of the Desert, Sister Act, Dirty Dancing...
And with this being London, you will be expected to pay far too much for the 'privilege' of a night at the theatre. Expect to cough up about £40-£60 per seat at an evening performance.
Half the drama these days is involved in trying to buy a ticket!
The best new productions sell out instantly, especially when an A-list star is announced to play a limited run of shows. However, it's not people on the streets buying these tickets, but rather the touts.
It can be extremely frustrating, but often the only way to get into some shows is to pay a rip-off ransom to an agent who has block-booked seats. Some of the half-truths these agencies peddle is also off-putting.
For instance, I was looking at a website listing different shows and found one I fancied. On checking ticket prices and availability, I was guided to this site to buy tickets. I knew from the theatre itself what the ticket price tiers were, so when I was offered £30 seats as being the best available for that night I assumed everything cheaper was sold out. I was given a reference number and told to call in at the theatre.
The theatre box office happily handed over my tickets, but on checking the seating chart it was clear that I'd been sold tickets in the £25 tier. What was cheeky of the theatre is that my £25 tickets had a £30 price printed on them. I cannot recommend that you buy on-line from the website above, nor would I ever use any of the agencies you'll see dotted around London.
My tips would be:-
So take my tip if you're London and want to the give ticket touts the slip!
Most London theatres are in fact Victorian, when the majority of the population must have been malnourished dwarves. So expect cramped seating, inadequate toilet facilities, miniscule bars, plus railings that will conspire to block your view from the balcony no matter how you contort yourself. The most modern West End theatre was built in 1937!
On top of this is that fact that most productions these days are stale retreads of Hollywood movies or desperate cash-ins. Shawshank Redemption anyone? If not, how about Grease, Priscilla Queen of the Desert, Sister Act, Dirty Dancing...
And with this being London, you will be expected to pay far too much for the 'privilege' of a night at the theatre. Expect to cough up about £40-£60 per seat at an evening performance.
Half the drama these days is involved in trying to buy a ticket!
The best new productions sell out instantly, especially when an A-list star is announced to play a limited run of shows. However, it's not people on the streets buying these tickets, but rather the touts.
It can be extremely frustrating, but often the only way to get into some shows is to pay a rip-off ransom to an agent who has block-booked seats. Some of the half-truths these agencies peddle is also off-putting.
For instance, I was looking at a website listing different shows and found one I fancied. On checking ticket prices and availability, I was guided to this site to buy tickets. I knew from the theatre itself what the ticket price tiers were, so when I was offered £30 seats as being the best available for that night I assumed everything cheaper was sold out. I was given a reference number and told to call in at the theatre.
The theatre box office happily handed over my tickets, but on checking the seating chart it was clear that I'd been sold tickets in the £25 tier. What was cheeky of the theatre is that my £25 tickets had a £30 price printed on them. I cannot recommend that you buy on-line from the website above, nor would I ever use any of the agencies you'll see dotted around London.
My tips would be:-
- stick to a reputable site like Time Out and What's On Stage when looking to buy tickets;
- buy tickets as soon as they go on sale, before the reviews, although you may be stuck watching a duff production;
- buy tickets for a matinee performance, although the stars will be replaced by their understudies and the cast may be a bit sluggish (particularly during a Saturday afternoon 'hangover' show).
So take my tip if you're London and want to the give ticket touts the slip!
Sunday, 12 July 2009
The best of London 12 - eating, drinking & pubs
These days it seems most shops are nothing more than Identikit tin sheds surrounded by a car park.
Remember the days when companies took special pride in their places of business, spending time and money to provide a place of beauty and comfort? They did it because they knew that by making their customers feel welcome we would repay them with our loyalty.
The Black Friar is one such outpost, a fantastic pub whose builders put a great deal of effort into creating what now feels like a luxurious retreat from the bland modern world outside.
The pup oozes sophistication with marble walls, gilt mosaics, sculpted bronzes and other extravagant details like carved figures holding the light fittings.
The decorative theme harks back to the pub being built on the site of an old monastery, so the walls are covered with a host of fat friars and merry monks.
The beers are always a treat and we've enjoyed the likes of Badger, Fullers and Timothy Taylor here. The kitchen's speciality is a range of huge meat pies served with two veg and gravy for about £8. Food is available till 9pm. We have found the staff to be extremely attentive and friendly, another rarity in London.
Plus you'rea few minutes from Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese which means it's ideal for that great English tradition, the pub crawl.
Somewhere in the pub you might spot a plaque admonishing you to 'SEIZE OCCASION: A GOOD THING IS SOON SNATCHED UP.'
Or gulped up, more like, as the food and beer is top notch. Take a tip and enjoy these monks' quips!
INFO Sadly these days the pub sits adrift amid a spaghetti bowl of busy roads, underpasses and pedestrian subways on the north bank of the Thames next to Blackfriars Bridge. Nearest tube is Blackfriars (District and Circle lines). It is very convenient for St Pauls and Tate Modern.
Remember the days when companies took special pride in their places of business, spending time and money to provide a place of beauty and comfort? They did it because they knew that by making their customers feel welcome we would repay them with our loyalty.
The Black Friar is one such outpost, a fantastic pub whose builders put a great deal of effort into creating what now feels like a luxurious retreat from the bland modern world outside.
The pup oozes sophistication with marble walls, gilt mosaics, sculpted bronzes and other extravagant details like carved figures holding the light fittings.
The decorative theme harks back to the pub being built on the site of an old monastery, so the walls are covered with a host of fat friars and merry monks.
The beers are always a treat and we've enjoyed the likes of Badger, Fullers and Timothy Taylor here. The kitchen's speciality is a range of huge meat pies served with two veg and gravy for about £8. Food is available till 9pm. We have found the staff to be extremely attentive and friendly, another rarity in London.Plus you'rea few minutes from Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese which means it's ideal for that great English tradition, the pub crawl.
Somewhere in the pub you might spot a plaque admonishing you to 'SEIZE OCCASION: A GOOD THING IS SOON SNATCHED UP.'
Or gulped up, more like, as the food and beer is top notch. Take a tip and enjoy these monks' quips!
INFO Sadly these days the pub sits adrift amid a spaghetti bowl of busy roads, underpasses and pedestrian subways on the north bank of the Thames next to Blackfriars Bridge. Nearest tube is Blackfriars (District and Circle lines). It is very convenient for St Pauls and Tate Modern.
The best of London 11 - eating, drinking & pubs
Soho again (it's the heart of the West End after all) and where better for a cheap but wholesome meal than the The Stockpot?
An institution for budget travellers, this small chain of English restaurants dishes up inexpensive but filling fare at three London locations.
When you think English food, you probably think bland, but here the cooking is a mix of English and Continental. Best of all everything is seasoned with that one ingredient which I look for on every menu: Affordability! You can get three courses for £10 or so which is a bargain anywhere in the UK and an absolute steal in the tourist heart of London.
Be warned though, the food is not always fresh. At our last visit we were served a limp salad with anaemic tomatoes and the strawberries I ordered for dessert were small, soft and defrosted. This was in August, so there was no excuse for the fruit and veg to not be fresh.
However, if you stick to a soup to start, a meat dish for the mains and finish with a cooked sweet like the old-fashioned golden syrup sponge you won’t be disappointed. And at these prices you can round it off with a glass of wine without making an extra trip to the cashpoint (unless of course you've got no cash on you, as I don't believe they accept payment by card).
INFO There are three outposts of this eatery, but the one we’ve frequented is at 40 Panton Street, near Piccadilly Circus (Bakerloo and Piccadilly lines), directly across from the Comedy Theatre. Open from 7am daily, till 10pm Sunday and till 11.30pm other nights.
An institution for budget travellers, this small chain of English restaurants dishes up inexpensive but filling fare at three London locations.
When you think English food, you probably think bland, but here the cooking is a mix of English and Continental. Best of all everything is seasoned with that one ingredient which I look for on every menu: Affordability! You can get three courses for £10 or so which is a bargain anywhere in the UK and an absolute steal in the tourist heart of London.
Be warned though, the food is not always fresh. At our last visit we were served a limp salad with anaemic tomatoes and the strawberries I ordered for dessert were small, soft and defrosted. This was in August, so there was no excuse for the fruit and veg to not be fresh.
However, if you stick to a soup to start, a meat dish for the mains and finish with a cooked sweet like the old-fashioned golden syrup sponge you won’t be disappointed. And at these prices you can round it off with a glass of wine without making an extra trip to the cashpoint (unless of course you've got no cash on you, as I don't believe they accept payment by card).
INFO There are three outposts of this eatery, but the one we’ve frequented is at 40 Panton Street, near Piccadilly Circus (Bakerloo and Piccadilly lines), directly across from the Comedy Theatre. Open from 7am daily, till 10pm Sunday and till 11.30pm other nights.
The best of London 10 - eating, drinking & pubs
One of my fave cake shop/cafes in London (and trust me, there are hundreds to choose from) is the Amato Pasticceria in Soho.
For all its cultural institutions, historical sites and massive shops, sometimes the one thing I look forward to most on my London visits is a nice slice of cake and a hot drink!
Amato delivers on all points. You can sit in the back for a hot savoury snack (omelettes, toasties, quiches, etc) but my favourite indulgence to do is request one of their gorgeous desserts to take away for the train home to Manchester. Lovingly wrapped in a box topped off with a bow, it's like receiving a present, but one that won't last till Christmas - or even Watford Junction!
Divine cakes, sweet rolls, chocolate confections and treats galore stand attentively in regimental lines in the tempting shop window all begging to be sampled. The choice could make you dizzy (wait, maybe that's the sugar rush), but the staff are charming.
They will proudly describe their creations and are happy to make suggestions. They never seem too busy to go out of their way to be helpful, which makes them an endangered species in this rush-rush, push-push town.
Take the tip and treat your lips!
INFO You will find Amato at 14 Old Compton Street, which is at the top end near the junction with Charing Cross Road. It is about halfway between either Tottenham Court Road (Central and Northern lines) and Leicester Square (Piccadilly and Northern lines) tube stations. Maison Bertaux is a few steps away if you prefer French pastries.
For all its cultural institutions, historical sites and massive shops, sometimes the one thing I look forward to most on my London visits is a nice slice of cake and a hot drink!
Amato delivers on all points. You can sit in the back for a hot savoury snack (omelettes, toasties, quiches, etc) but my favourite indulgence to do is request one of their gorgeous desserts to take away for the train home to Manchester. Lovingly wrapped in a box topped off with a bow, it's like receiving a present, but one that won't last till Christmas - or even Watford Junction!
Divine cakes, sweet rolls, chocolate confections and treats galore stand attentively in regimental lines in the tempting shop window all begging to be sampled. The choice could make you dizzy (wait, maybe that's the sugar rush), but the staff are charming.
They will proudly describe their creations and are happy to make suggestions. They never seem too busy to go out of their way to be helpful, which makes them an endangered species in this rush-rush, push-push town.
Take the tip and treat your lips!
INFO You will find Amato at 14 Old Compton Street, which is at the top end near the junction with Charing Cross Road. It is about halfway between either Tottenham Court Road (Central and Northern lines) and Leicester Square (Piccadilly and Northern lines) tube stations. Maison Bertaux is a few steps away if you prefer French pastries.
The best of London 9 - eating, drinking & pubs
Shuffle off Fleet Street down a bleak back alley and you might fear being mugged. Find a great wooden door and heave it open and those worries will disappear as you are embraced by the scenty glow of a hot coal fire.
Welcome to the hidden gem that is one of my favourite pubs in London, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.
I say 'hidden' because although it features heavily on the internet and in guidebooks, it is hard to find and doesn't have an impressive street frontage, which means it attracts only the most tenacious tourists.
As you'd imagine for a place built in 1667, the history is legendary and the barmaids are happy to tell some tales or hand you a brochure about the place. For instance, this is the pub whose parrot (Polly, of course) was honoured with an obituary in The Times.
They serve the full range of one of Yorkshire's finest breweries, Samuel Smiths. Their Nut Brown Ale, Porter and organic ale in particular are terrific.
There are several floors and you'll probably explore each one on your search for a seat. Not all rooms are kept open and some are reserved for diners, but the basement bar is large if characterless with hard benches and plenty of room if you're happy standing.
Be careful to not bump your head on the stairs when going down to the tiny loo. I imagine several people have died on these steps when inebriated, but it all adds to the history of the place.
Being in the heart of the City means the pub is taken over by a contingent of gents over the long liquid lunch hour, but we've never felt out of place despite the white tablecloths in their upstairs dining room.
In the dining room you'll sit amid dark high-panelled snugs warmed by a coal fire as sunlight filters through bottle-glass windows. This same room is where the likes of Samuel Johnson and Charles Dickens ate, drank and caroused (Dr Johnson's house is right around the corner).
The time we dined there the main courses each cost about £10. The focus is on traditional British fare like steak & kidney pie, pork loin, etc. The portions were generous and the beers cold and delicious. You might want to call in a day early to book ahead, though.
And when paying the tab pay be sure to pay tribute to Polly, who has been stuffed and sits by the till. 'Bill, please!'
INFO Coming out of Blackfriars tube (District & Circle line), head north (away from the Thames) and along busy New Bridge Street for about 200 metres to Fleet Street. Turn left here (heading west and away from St Paul’s Cathedral) and look for the sign on the north side of Fleet Street another 200 metres along.
Welcome to the hidden gem that is one of my favourite pubs in London, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.
I say 'hidden' because although it features heavily on the internet and in guidebooks, it is hard to find and doesn't have an impressive street frontage, which means it attracts only the most tenacious tourists.
As you'd imagine for a place built in 1667, the history is legendary and the barmaids are happy to tell some tales or hand you a brochure about the place. For instance, this is the pub whose parrot (Polly, of course) was honoured with an obituary in The Times.
They serve the full range of one of Yorkshire's finest breweries, Samuel Smiths. Their Nut Brown Ale, Porter and organic ale in particular are terrific.
There are several floors and you'll probably explore each one on your search for a seat. Not all rooms are kept open and some are reserved for diners, but the basement bar is large if characterless with hard benches and plenty of room if you're happy standing.
Be careful to not bump your head on the stairs when going down to the tiny loo. I imagine several people have died on these steps when inebriated, but it all adds to the history of the place.
Being in the heart of the City means the pub is taken over by a contingent of gents over the long liquid lunch hour, but we've never felt out of place despite the white tablecloths in their upstairs dining room.
In the dining room you'll sit amid dark high-panelled snugs warmed by a coal fire as sunlight filters through bottle-glass windows. This same room is where the likes of Samuel Johnson and Charles Dickens ate, drank and caroused (Dr Johnson's house is right around the corner).
The time we dined there the main courses each cost about £10. The focus is on traditional British fare like steak & kidney pie, pork loin, etc. The portions were generous and the beers cold and delicious. You might want to call in a day early to book ahead, though.
And when paying the tab pay be sure to pay tribute to Polly, who has been stuffed and sits by the till. 'Bill, please!'
INFO Coming out of Blackfriars tube (District & Circle line), head north (away from the Thames) and along busy New Bridge Street for about 200 metres to Fleet Street. Turn left here (heading west and away from St Paul’s Cathedral) and look for the sign on the north side of Fleet Street another 200 metres along.
Sunday, 5 July 2009
The best of London 8 - small art galleries
London has some of the world's greatest treasurehouses (the British Museum, National Gallery and Victoria & Albert collection come to mind), but at some point during your visit you might prefer a smaller and more manageable gallery.
One of these I can recommend is the Wallace Collection. One of the finest small art collections in the country, the Wallace resides in the palatial Hertford House on Manchester Square behind Selfridges.
The focus is on French painting (Poussin, Delacroix and 19 Bouchers!) though there are also superb Dutch genre canvasses, portraits by Gainsborough and Reynolds, plus an exotic mix of armour, porcelain and extravagant clocks. Amongst the Old Masters represented here are Rembrandt, Reubens, Velazquez and Van Dyck. Probably their best-loved painting is The Laughing Cavalier by Frans Hals.
The gallery is a joy to wander around and you could pop in for only an hour but still see everything. Best of all, it's free to visit.
INFO The nearest Tube stop is Bond Street (Jubilee and Central lines). The museum is open daily 10am-5pm, but is shut over Christmas. Ongoing renovations mean a few select rooms will be shut or have more difficult access for certain visitors, their website has full details.
A more grand but still compact affair can be found at Somerset House. This is an old royal palace and former government offices which is now home to a clutch of galleries collectively administered by the Courtauld Institute of Art.
Their art gallery is a treat with some of the finest of the French Impressionists on view: oils by Seurat and Cezanne, exquisite bronzes of ballet dancers by Degas, plus Monet, Gauguin and every other major name of the movement. One of the masterpieces of the collection is A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Manet.
The collection is not given over completely to Impressionists, though. There is one room nearly full of works by Reubens and another dedicated almost entirely to Kadinsky. A chamber on the ground floor is devoted to gilded Italian altarpieces. The rooms are small and intimate, often with extravagant ceilings and furniture.
INFO Admission to the gallery is £5 per adult (but free for National Art Fund members). There is a combo ticket if you are interested in visiting other parts of the complex, which include items from the St Petersburg's Hermitage and a decorative arts collection (a bit frou-frou for our tastes, though). The nearest Tube stop is Embankment (Bakerloo, Northern, District and Circle lines).
Finally, how about Leighton House? Tucked away in the genteel back streets of Kensington you'll find the home and studio of Lord Leighton, a famous painter and one-time president of the Royal Academy. For fans of the pre-Raphaelites, a visit is a must as not only is his sumptuous house filled with his own works, but there is a collection of art by his contemporaries such as Burne-Jones, Watts and Millais.
The highlight of the house is the fantastical Arab Hall with its bubbling fountain, intricate mosaics and exotic blue tiles. The sumptuous space has been featured in several films, including Bright Young Things, and music videos starring the likes of Spandau Ballet and The Stranglers.
INFO Leighton House is at 12 Holland Park Road, north of Kensington High Street (a 10-minute walk from the Tube there - District and Circle lines). THE HOUSE IS CLOSED FOR RENOVATIONS UNTIL THE END OF 2009 - CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR DETAILS.
One of these I can recommend is the Wallace Collection. One of the finest small art collections in the country, the Wallace resides in the palatial Hertford House on Manchester Square behind Selfridges.The focus is on French painting (Poussin, Delacroix and 19 Bouchers!) though there are also superb Dutch genre canvasses, portraits by Gainsborough and Reynolds, plus an exotic mix of armour, porcelain and extravagant clocks. Amongst the Old Masters represented here are Rembrandt, Reubens, Velazquez and Van Dyck. Probably their best-loved painting is The Laughing Cavalier by Frans Hals.
The gallery is a joy to wander around and you could pop in for only an hour but still see everything. Best of all, it's free to visit.
INFO The nearest Tube stop is Bond Street (Jubilee and Central lines). The museum is open daily 10am-5pm, but is shut over Christmas. Ongoing renovations mean a few select rooms will be shut or have more difficult access for certain visitors, their website has full details.
A more grand but still compact affair can be found at Somerset House. This is an old royal palace and former government offices which is now home to a clutch of galleries collectively administered by the Courtauld Institute of Art.
Their art gallery is a treat with some of the finest of the French Impressionists on view: oils by Seurat and Cezanne, exquisite bronzes of ballet dancers by Degas, plus Monet, Gauguin and every other major name of the movement. One of the masterpieces of the collection is A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Manet.The collection is not given over completely to Impressionists, though. There is one room nearly full of works by Reubens and another dedicated almost entirely to Kadinsky. A chamber on the ground floor is devoted to gilded Italian altarpieces. The rooms are small and intimate, often with extravagant ceilings and furniture.
INFO Admission to the gallery is £5 per adult (but free for National Art Fund members). There is a combo ticket if you are interested in visiting other parts of the complex, which include items from the St Petersburg's Hermitage and a decorative arts collection (a bit frou-frou for our tastes, though). The nearest Tube stop is Embankment (Bakerloo, Northern, District and Circle lines).
Finally, how about Leighton House? Tucked away in the genteel back streets of Kensington you'll find the home and studio of Lord Leighton, a famous painter and one-time president of the Royal Academy. For fans of the pre-Raphaelites, a visit is a must as not only is his sumptuous house filled with his own works, but there is a collection of art by his contemporaries such as Burne-Jones, Watts and Millais.
The highlight of the house is the fantastical Arab Hall with its bubbling fountain, intricate mosaics and exotic blue tiles. The sumptuous space has been featured in several films, including Bright Young Things, and music videos starring the likes of Spandau Ballet and The Stranglers.
INFO Leighton House is at 12 Holland Park Road, north of Kensington High Street (a 10-minute walk from the Tube there - District and Circle lines). THE HOUSE IS CLOSED FOR RENOVATIONS UNTIL THE END OF 2009 - CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR DETAILS.
The best of London 7 - coffee
I gave up on caffeine a couple years ago after one too many migraines. I reached the point I could not skip my daily dosage without having withdrawal symptoms, even after switching from coffee to tea.
Here are a couple of my choice picks though for an excellent cuppa joe in London (after my next trip to the Big Smoke I'll report on the decaff situation).
First up, the Festival Square Cafe Bar Deli. Sat amongst the concrete monstrosities of the South Bank cultural complex you'll find this large but nice cafe with comfy booths, classy tables and spacious outdoor seating area.
It is convenient for the Hayward Gallery, London Eye, National Theatre, IMAX, NFT, etc. I recall it made excellent coffee plus your usual pastries, sandwiches and other light bites.
INFO On the ground floor of the Royal Festival Hall, on the side facing away from the Thames. Nearest Tube is Waterloo (Jubilee, Northern and Bakerloo lines).
Next, the Algerian Coffee Stores. Soho has changed immensely over the past few years and many of the bohemian establishments for which it was famous in the 'swinging 60s' have been replaced by gay pubs and Chinese buffetts.
One of the hangers-on at 52 Old Compton Street is this fine coffee emporium, a cramped shop selling all manner of coffee and tea, loose or bagged. The expert staff will be happy to give their opinion on whether you might prefer a rich Sumatran, a medium-roasted Colombian, or (what the heck) a half kilo of Huehuetenango. In 2007 they celebrated their 120th anniversary and proudly retain many of the original features of the premises.
From the counter they sell what is possibly London's cheapest yet freshest ground coffee to drink, including a latte for £1.10. Takeaway only, as there is no room for seats. Check their website for their mail order service.
INFO The nearest tube stop is Leicester Square (Northern and Piccadilly lines). Open daily 9am till 7pm (till 8 on Sunday and till 9 on Thursday & Friday).
Here are a couple of my choice picks though for an excellent cuppa joe in London (after my next trip to the Big Smoke I'll report on the decaff situation).
First up, the Festival Square Cafe Bar Deli. Sat amongst the concrete monstrosities of the South Bank cultural complex you'll find this large but nice cafe with comfy booths, classy tables and spacious outdoor seating area.It is convenient for the Hayward Gallery, London Eye, National Theatre, IMAX, NFT, etc. I recall it made excellent coffee plus your usual pastries, sandwiches and other light bites.
INFO On the ground floor of the Royal Festival Hall, on the side facing away from the Thames. Nearest Tube is Waterloo (Jubilee, Northern and Bakerloo lines).
Next, the Algerian Coffee Stores. Soho has changed immensely over the past few years and many of the bohemian establishments for which it was famous in the 'swinging 60s' have been replaced by gay pubs and Chinese buffetts.
One of the hangers-on at 52 Old Compton Street is this fine coffee emporium, a cramped shop selling all manner of coffee and tea, loose or bagged. The expert staff will be happy to give their opinion on whether you might prefer a rich Sumatran, a medium-roasted Colombian, or (what the heck) a half kilo of Huehuetenango. In 2007 they celebrated their 120th anniversary and proudly retain many of the original features of the premises.
From the counter they sell what is possibly London's cheapest yet freshest ground coffee to drink, including a latte for £1.10. Takeaway only, as there is no room for seats. Check their website for their mail order service.
INFO The nearest tube stop is Leicester Square (Northern and Piccadilly lines). Open daily 9am till 7pm (till 8 on Sunday and till 9 on Thursday & Friday).
Wednesday, 1 July 2009
The best of London 6 - breakfast
A real find in Regents Park is this farmhouse-style rustic cafe which dishes up free range eggs and bacon plus fresh muffins and traditional fayre like Chelsea buns and bread pudding.The Honest Sausage take pride in sourcing local ingredients, so the apples are English and the ice cream is made from Jersey cream. Plus there's a lovely choice of organic teas and their rich Fairtrade coffee is quite cheap for London.
It's the perfect spot for a cuppa if you're visiting London Zoo or admiring the Regency terraces, though it's a bit of a trail to walk to. They have a branch near the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, see their website for details.
INFO The nearest Tube stop is Baker Street (Bakerloo, Jubilee, Hammersmith & City, Central and Metropolitan lines). Head into Regent's Park and follow signs for its Inner Circle. You'll find the cafe right in the middle of the park.
The best of London 5 - breakfast
Imagine a cold Sunday morning. Though the sun is shining, the streets are empty as Londoners sleep off their nights out or, who knows, go to church. Anyway, everything is shut.But what's this wonderful aroma wafting across the pavement? And are those awnings really open? Do you see a light on? If the address is 28 Greek Street in Soho then you've found one of the city's finest French patisseries, Maison Bertaux.
We stepped in to find most of the tables covered with trays of fresh baked pastries cooling off from the oven. Can you imagine the smell and sight of that greeting you when you've yet to have your first cup of coffee? Heaven!
A tray was whisked off a table so we could sit (what, those aren't all ours?). We each ordered a coffee. The classic plain croissant was crisp, chewy and hot from the oven, while the pain au chocolat was enormous. They also do croissants with sliced ham and cheese baked in for a French-style all-in-one breakfast.
Table for two, croissants for oneThe interior is a divine pink fantasy of kitsch bits and shabby chic. As we sat there numerous expats came through the door for their morning pastry bagged up to take away. The staff were friendly and seemed to know everyone who came through the door.
One of each, please!Now the bad news...the coffee was only okay and the prices are scandalous, even for London. For two coffees and two pastries we paid £8, way back in 2005, so it’s likely to be even more dear now. That's about 13 American dollars, sheesh.
The patisserie is just as welcoming in the evening. On our last trip back we had an evening sojourn with some moist fruit tart (oooh, er) in the upstairs lounge which, judging by the light fixtures, they haven't decorated since the 1960s. Save your shillings to treat yourself here, each slice of cake was £3.50.
INFO The nearest tube stop is Leicester Square (Northern and Piccadilly lines). The patisserie is near the east end of Old Compton Street where it intersects with Charing Cross Road .Greek Street runs parallel to Charing Cross Road - head to the lower end and you'll find Maison Bertaux between the Three Greyhounds and Coach & Horses pubs. Open 8.30am-8pm daily.
Wednesday, 24 June 2009
The best of London 4 - hostelling
The St Pancras youth hostel is one of London's most modern and well-appointed hostels, being a converted office block with restaurant, lounge, internet PCs, kitchen, laundry, 24-hour secure access plus cycle & bag storage.
Most rooms are small with just a few bunk beds which can be privately reserved if you're travelling in a small party. Or you can upgrade to a premium room with double bed, TV and en-suite facilities for £63 per room per night. Free bed linen, hot private showers and a full cooked breakfast are included in the price.
That's right, B&B for 33 quid per person per night in central London...excellent value!
The main local attraction is the British Library directly across the street. The Foundling Museum at Coram Fields is a 5 minute walk and you can walk to the British Museum in 15 minutes. If your feet are too beat, your transport options for getting around London easily are excellent.
Take a tip and give St Pauls YHA the slip!
INFO You will find the hostel a few steps away from London's new Eurostar terminus at St Pancras (Victoria, Northern, Piccadilly, Metropolitan, Hammersmith & City and Circle lines). You must be a member of the International Youth Hostelling Association (which includes the YHA) as otherwise you will need to pay a surcharge.
Most rooms are small with just a few bunk beds which can be privately reserved if you're travelling in a small party. Or you can upgrade to a premium room with double bed, TV and en-suite facilities for £63 per room per night. Free bed linen, hot private showers and a full cooked breakfast are included in the price.That's right, B&B for 33 quid per person per night in central London...excellent value!
The main local attraction is the British Library directly across the street. The Foundling Museum at Coram Fields is a 5 minute walk and you can walk to the British Museum in 15 minutes. If your feet are too beat, your transport options for getting around London easily are excellent.
Take a tip and give St Pauls YHA the slip!
INFO You will find the hostel a few steps away from London's new Eurostar terminus at St Pancras (Victoria, Northern, Piccadilly, Metropolitan, Hammersmith & City and Circle lines). You must be a member of the International Youth Hostelling Association (which includes the YHA) as otherwise you will need to pay a surcharge.
The worst of London 2 - hostelling
Usually we take advantage of the luxuries on offer at the St Pancras youth hostel, but for a change we decided once to stay in a more central and historic location. We thought where better than across the street from St Pauls Cathedral in what used to be a choir boys' school.
I'm sorry we bothered with the St Pauls YHA, as it was one of our worst hostelling experiences.
Private rooms are available but we opted for one of the marginally cheaper dormitories. Never again. Despite being in a small dorm with only six beds, we were situated almost at street level. Windows were wide open all night in the summer as there's no ventilation, allowing in all manner of street noise. This includes shouting and screeching from pubs up the road, followed by our bunkmates crawling in much later from those aforementioned pubs up the road.
There was a brief spell of relative quiet after 3am, punctuated by the extravagant snoring and the occasional bout of wind from our bunkmates. I had come prepared for this, but one of my earplugs fell out in the middle of the night and rolled under the bunk where it was eaten by dust bunnies.
Come 6am the construction work, street sweepers, bin emptying and traffic commuting began in earnest, all tolled off by persistent church bells. I crawled from my bunk at dawn quivering like someone from an Edgar Allan Poe tale: 'The bells...the bells...the BELLS!!!'.
The price included bed linen, showers and breakfast, but this was Continental style and not a cooked full English. The dining area only seats about 30 people (for a hostel that sleeps 190).
As well as the cramped restaurant there was a lounge, internet PCs and laundry. The building in general was a bit rickety and I don't think there's a kitchen.
We paid £50 for a night of no sleep and a rubbish breakfast. It's definitely worth paying the extra £15 to have a private en-suite with full English breakfast at the St Pancras YHA.
INFO It is easy find around the corner from St Pauls Cathedral. The nearest tube stops are St Pauls (Central Line) and Blackfrairs (District Line). Trains come into Blackfrairs station as well, plus the City Thameslink station is within walking distance. You must be a member of the International Youth Hostelling Association or the guest of a YHA member with a special pass, otherwise you pay a surcharge.
I'm sorry we bothered with the St Pauls YHA, as it was one of our worst hostelling experiences.
Private rooms are available but we opted for one of the marginally cheaper dormitories. Never again. Despite being in a small dorm with only six beds, we were situated almost at street level. Windows were wide open all night in the summer as there's no ventilation, allowing in all manner of street noise. This includes shouting and screeching from pubs up the road, followed by our bunkmates crawling in much later from those aforementioned pubs up the road.
There was a brief spell of relative quiet after 3am, punctuated by the extravagant snoring and the occasional bout of wind from our bunkmates. I had come prepared for this, but one of my earplugs fell out in the middle of the night and rolled under the bunk where it was eaten by dust bunnies.
Come 6am the construction work, street sweepers, bin emptying and traffic commuting began in earnest, all tolled off by persistent church bells. I crawled from my bunk at dawn quivering like someone from an Edgar Allan Poe tale: 'The bells...the bells...the BELLS!!!'.
The price included bed linen, showers and breakfast, but this was Continental style and not a cooked full English. The dining area only seats about 30 people (for a hostel that sleeps 190).
As well as the cramped restaurant there was a lounge, internet PCs and laundry. The building in general was a bit rickety and I don't think there's a kitchen.
We paid £50 for a night of no sleep and a rubbish breakfast. It's definitely worth paying the extra £15 to have a private en-suite with full English breakfast at the St Pancras YHA.
INFO It is easy find around the corner from St Pauls Cathedral. The nearest tube stops are St Pauls (Central Line) and Blackfrairs (District Line). Trains come into Blackfrairs station as well, plus the City Thameslink station is within walking distance. You must be a member of the International Youth Hostelling Association or the guest of a YHA member with a special pass, otherwise you pay a surcharge.
Sunday, 21 June 2009
The best of London 3 - Guildhall Art Gallery
Stood next to the medieval Guildhall, this is the art collection owned by the City of London itself which specialises in depictions of official processions, city panoramas and portraits of local worthies.There are some decent pre-Raphaelites by the likes of Millais, Leighton and Rossetti. Plus there's the infamous statue of Margaret Thatcher which was beheaded. It has now been repaired and sits inside a protective glass case, safe from lunatics wielding crowbars or anyone else who is not "an avid fan" of the former Prime Minister.
Then there's Britain's single largest canvas, depicting a naval battle at Gibraltar, which is two storeys tall and best viewed from the mezzanine.
Underneath the galleries are the exposed foundations of the Roman ampitheatre which played host to gladitorial contests watched by 6000 spectators almost 2000 years ago.
It is always quiet during our visits and at times we have had entire rooms to ourselves. It's worth seeking out for an hour of quiet contemplation amid some rarely-seen artworks.
Next door to the gallery is the medieval London Guildhall, the civic heart of old London. It survived the Great Fire of 1666 and is the oldest stone building in the City which is not a church.
Its great hall was the scene of many historic events, including the trial of Lady Jane Grey. Today it plays hosts to official functions but members of the public are admitted to the great hall when possible. If you're already in the area and have been to the art gallery, it's worth popping over for a few minutes looking inside at the stained glass and monuments.INFO Follow street signs for the Guildhall and/or Guildhall Art Gallery from Bank, Mansion House, Moorgate or St Paul's tube stations. Admission is free to all on a Friday, otherwise in 2009 adult admission costs £2.50 and a concessionary ticket is £1. No admission is charged on any day after 3.30pm. The gallery is open daily, 10-5 Mon-Sat and 12-4 Sun.
The best of London 2 - Samuel Johnson's house
Samuel Johnson was a giant of his age. This was a man who befriended the painter Joshua Reynolds, tutored the actor David Garrick, attended sermons by John Wesley and had his life documented by James Boswell. Mementos of his interactions with the great of London society are on view at his house on Gough Square.
Most importantly, this is the man who in 9 years single-handedly compiled the first comprehensive dictionary which fully illustrated the proper usage of the English language.
It was here that he wrote entries like "OATS: a grain which in England is generally given to horses, but in Scotland supports the people."
A priceless first edition of the dictionary is on view here. You can read some rare examples of his letters (most were burnt after his death), admire some portraits and engravings, examine odd artefacts like a brick from the Great Wall of China and Reynolds' walking stick, then go around the corner to his local pub, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.
Although I think I got more out of visiting his boyhood home in Lichfield more, no literary tour to London would be complete without seeing where the landmark dictionary of the English language was assembled. Especially when you consider 2009 is the 300th anniversary of his birth!
INFO Dr Johnson's House is well signposted when walking around the City and can be found at 17 Gough Square off Fleet Street. Chancery Lane (Central line) is the nearest tube stop. The house is open 11-5 Mon-Sat, closed Sunday and Bank Holiday Mondays. Entry for adults in Summer 2000 is £4.50.
Most importantly, this is the man who in 9 years single-handedly compiled the first comprehensive dictionary which fully illustrated the proper usage of the English language.
It was here that he wrote entries like "OATS: a grain which in England is generally given to horses, but in Scotland supports the people."
A priceless first edition of the dictionary is on view here. You can read some rare examples of his letters (most were burnt after his death), admire some portraits and engravings, examine odd artefacts like a brick from the Great Wall of China and Reynolds' walking stick, then go around the corner to his local pub, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.Although I think I got more out of visiting his boyhood home in Lichfield more, no literary tour to London would be complete without seeing where the landmark dictionary of the English language was assembled. Especially when you consider 2009 is the 300th anniversary of his birth!
INFO Dr Johnson's House is well signposted when walking around the City and can be found at 17 Gough Square off Fleet Street. Chancery Lane (Central line) is the nearest tube stop. The house is open 11-5 Mon-Sat, closed Sunday and Bank Holiday Mondays. Entry for adults in Summer 2000 is £4.50.
The best of London 1 - bookshops along Charing Cross Road
Foyles is the grande dame of the many booksellers which line Charing Cross Road. It used to be famous as the store that looked more like a hoarder's attic than a proper shop, with its cramped rooms filled with stock piled onto rickety shelves in no particular order. What a fantastic haunt for booklovers!
It has now undergone a transformation, no doubt spurred on by the new Borders across the street. Burnt-out bulbs have been replaced, carpets have been cleaned and books have been neatly categorised. It still feels more like a library than a modern bookstore because of the sheer breadth of volumes. Obscure publishers and out-of-print titles continue to weigh down the shelves, so you are guaranteed to find something unique.
A jazz cafe now operates out of the basement, serving up coffee from the fine independent chain of Monmouth coffee shops. They have dived into the Internet Age as well with a website and plans are afoot to establish a network of branches across the UK.
It remains privately-owned and is no doubt the finest independent bookseller in the UK. You can read more about its history by following this link.
Along with Foyles, the aforementioned Borders and a flagship Blackwells there are many secondhand bookshops lining Charing Cross Road. Some are proper antiquarian booksellers offering fine first editions for the collector while others specialise in music, art, crime thrillers, etc.
We always find our way here and end up spending far more time and money than budgeted for. Even the tat shops that sell remainders, paperback flops and tacky TV tie-ins are worth a browse as you never know what you might turn up. Take a tip and make the trip!
INFO Foyles is close to Tottenham Court Road tube station (Northern & Central lines) and most of the bookshops that line Charing Cross Road can be found as you make your way towards Leicester Square - see map.
It has now undergone a transformation, no doubt spurred on by the new Borders across the street. Burnt-out bulbs have been replaced, carpets have been cleaned and books have been neatly categorised. It still feels more like a library than a modern bookstore because of the sheer breadth of volumes. Obscure publishers and out-of-print titles continue to weigh down the shelves, so you are guaranteed to find something unique.
A jazz cafe now operates out of the basement, serving up coffee from the fine independent chain of Monmouth coffee shops. They have dived into the Internet Age as well with a website and plans are afoot to establish a network of branches across the UK.
It remains privately-owned and is no doubt the finest independent bookseller in the UK. You can read more about its history by following this link.Along with Foyles, the aforementioned Borders and a flagship Blackwells there are many secondhand bookshops lining Charing Cross Road. Some are proper antiquarian booksellers offering fine first editions for the collector while others specialise in music, art, crime thrillers, etc.
We always find our way here and end up spending far more time and money than budgeted for. Even the tat shops that sell remainders, paperback flops and tacky TV tie-ins are worth a browse as you never know what you might turn up. Take a tip and make the trip!
INFO Foyles is close to Tottenham Court Road tube station (Northern & Central lines) and most of the bookshops that line Charing Cross Road can be found as you make your way towards Leicester Square - see map.
Saturday, 20 June 2009
The worst of London 1 - a boat trip on the Thames
What does a man do when he tires of London? If you think the answer might be to take a cruise along the River Thames, think again.
For all the times we've been to London, we had never been on the river by boat, so on a recent visit we decided once to take a cruise along the South Bank from the Tate Modern upriver to the London Eye.
What a sorry set-up. The staff at the pier seemed to be out-of-work prison wardens, bus drivers and school cooks judging by the surly, hard-bitten types manning the pier. I know it must become tiresome to be asked 1000 times a day 'Is this our boat? No? So when does it arrive?' - but maybe if there was more information provided and the boats kept to some semblance of a schedule for us tourists then we wouldn't pester so much.
As it was, our boat was 40 minutes late and our short hop to the next pier along cost £2, even with our travel card discount.
The seating onboard was a pathetic arrangement of plastic lawn furniture occupied by inattentive Spanish teenagers. The live commentary was an embarrassing affair given by a Cockney 18-year-old with a BTEC in travel-n-tourism whose insight amounted to saying each bridge we passed under was 'very famous.'
What a shambolic exercise. Perhaps it's all a joke by what I take to be the French owners, Bateux London? Perhaps the Tate to Tate catamaran or circular cruises aboard the glassed-in boats are better - they are certainly more expensive.
We were ashamed to be on board and cannot recommend that anyone submit themselves to this hellish experience.
Tuesday, 2 December 2008
Wednesday, 12 November 2008
"Cheap London hotel"
It is probably the most common Google search, but is there really such a thing as a cheap but decent hotel in London?
It is a depressing chore to sift through dozens of hotel booking sites, most of which look decidedly dodgy, in order to find a place to lay your weary head.
What do you mean, it's 2 miles back to the hotel?
A couple exhibitions in London look interesting, so I thought it might be time for another visit. At the moment Travelodge is selling rooms from as little as £9 a night ($13/€11). It is not unheard of for people to become Travelodge tarts, staying in a different hotel each night depending on where the bargains are to be had.
Looking at their list of saver rooms is deceptive though. In small print it says that prices were correct as at 6am that morning, so by the time all the office workers have spent their tea breaks booking up the deals those £9 rooms will have become £49, £59 or £69 rooms.
And yet Travelodge still think they are doing us all a favour, because the sad fact is a hotel room for less than £75 a night is considered suspiciously cheap in London. Most places which offer that as their standard fare are dire fleapits. I should know. I once PAID MONEY to sleep on a mattress. Literally, 'a mattress' with no bedframe or springs.
The fire escape was a novelty, too
So when a respected national chain dangles a few cheap options in the low season, my fingers get crippled from so much clicking. My fingers got burned once though when I booked the Travelodge in chi-chi Covent Garden.
Travelodge Covent Garden is steps away from Seven Dials, but that is its only saving grace
Like many other Travelodge properties, the hotel was once an office block and looked like a gulag with double glazing. The A/C had no thermostat, so you either tolerated 'all blow' or 'no go'. The shower tap was an exercise in typical fiddly English engineering with the result that it was impossible to find that comfortable zone between 'scalding' and 'so this is what it felt like to swim around the wreckage of the Titanic - no wonder Leonardo couldn't hang on.' Time for bed, and the bedsprings had more sag than a National Geographic cover girl.
All this for £49 ($73/€58) with an optional breakfast at £7.50. The hotel enjoyed a premium central location and believe it or not, £49 in that neighbourhood is indeed a bargain.
Granted, another Travelodge experience was far better, this time at the City Road property in the East End. So it was across the street from a cemetery. So you had to walk 10 minutes to catch the Tube or find somewhere decent to eat. No matter, it was £19 for the night, the paint was still damp from the remodelling job and it was sparkling clean.
There are other ways of finding a room. For instance, there is the Hoxton Hotel and their famous £1 rooms. Unfortunately, the time when these rooms go on sale is announced by Martin Lewis on his Money Saving Expert email which is received by HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS if not millions of people. Last time it took 26 minutes for the £1 rooms to sell out.
Sample the exotic tastes of London: mandarin, vanilla... BISON??!
So my advice would be to:-
1. Use a site like Tripadvisor to find out what a hotel is really like before parting with your cash;
2. Book yourself a private room at a YHA hostel because the nicer ones don't feel at all like a hostel and you don't have to be a youth for that matter;
3. Zip through the listings at HostelWorld - it's like Tripadvisor, but for hostels. You might find an independent hostel with the standards you require;
4. See if one of the universities is offering space in its residence halls during a school holiday;
5. Accept there is no such thing as a cheap but decent hotel room in London, so start saving now in order to afford a halfway decent room.
6. Start making friends with people who live there!
As for me, I will take advantage of the fact that the recent track upgrades mean there are now 3 trains an hour between Manchester and London. Book well enough ahead and the train fare is £8 each way. With a journey time of 2 hours, for me London has become a daytrip!
It is a depressing chore to sift through dozens of hotel booking sites, most of which look decidedly dodgy, in order to find a place to lay your weary head.
What do you mean, it's 2 miles back to the hotel?A couple exhibitions in London look interesting, so I thought it might be time for another visit. At the moment Travelodge is selling rooms from as little as £9 a night ($13/€11). It is not unheard of for people to become Travelodge tarts, staying in a different hotel each night depending on where the bargains are to be had.
Looking at their list of saver rooms is deceptive though. In small print it says that prices were correct as at 6am that morning, so by the time all the office workers have spent their tea breaks booking up the deals those £9 rooms will have become £49, £59 or £69 rooms.
And yet Travelodge still think they are doing us all a favour, because the sad fact is a hotel room for less than £75 a night is considered suspiciously cheap in London. Most places which offer that as their standard fare are dire fleapits. I should know. I once PAID MONEY to sleep on a mattress. Literally, 'a mattress' with no bedframe or springs.
The fire escape was a novelty, tooSo when a respected national chain dangles a few cheap options in the low season, my fingers get crippled from so much clicking. My fingers got burned once though when I booked the Travelodge in chi-chi Covent Garden.
Travelodge Covent Garden is steps away from Seven Dials, but that is its only saving graceLike many other Travelodge properties, the hotel was once an office block and looked like a gulag with double glazing. The A/C had no thermostat, so you either tolerated 'all blow' or 'no go'. The shower tap was an exercise in typical fiddly English engineering with the result that it was impossible to find that comfortable zone between 'scalding' and 'so this is what it felt like to swim around the wreckage of the Titanic - no wonder Leonardo couldn't hang on.' Time for bed, and the bedsprings had more sag than a National Geographic cover girl.
All this for £49 ($73/€58) with an optional breakfast at £7.50. The hotel enjoyed a premium central location and believe it or not, £49 in that neighbourhood is indeed a bargain.
Granted, another Travelodge experience was far better, this time at the City Road property in the East End. So it was across the street from a cemetery. So you had to walk 10 minutes to catch the Tube or find somewhere decent to eat. No matter, it was £19 for the night, the paint was still damp from the remodelling job and it was sparkling clean.
There are other ways of finding a room. For instance, there is the Hoxton Hotel and their famous £1 rooms. Unfortunately, the time when these rooms go on sale is announced by Martin Lewis on his Money Saving Expert email which is received by HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS if not millions of people. Last time it took 26 minutes for the £1 rooms to sell out.
Sample the exotic tastes of London: mandarin, vanilla... BISON??!So my advice would be to:-
1. Use a site like Tripadvisor to find out what a hotel is really like before parting with your cash;
2. Book yourself a private room at a YHA hostel because the nicer ones don't feel at all like a hostel and you don't have to be a youth for that matter;
3. Zip through the listings at HostelWorld - it's like Tripadvisor, but for hostels. You might find an independent hostel with the standards you require;
4. See if one of the universities is offering space in its residence halls during a school holiday;
5. Accept there is no such thing as a cheap but decent hotel room in London, so start saving now in order to afford a halfway decent room.
6. Start making friends with people who live there!
As for me, I will take advantage of the fact that the recent track upgrades mean there are now 3 trains an hour between Manchester and London. Book well enough ahead and the train fare is £8 each way. With a journey time of 2 hours, for me London has become a daytrip!
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