Midnight in the Garden... Savannah 1

Savannah has been on our list of must-sees ever since reading (and re-reading) Midnight in the Garden of Good & Evil.

The first book I literally was unable to put down (I stayed up all night to finish it), it is known in Savannah merely 'The Book'. Midnight... has attracted thousands of people keen to experience for themselves the shady squares, gracious old buildings and notorious fun-loving locals.

This was going to be the only stop on our itinerary to merit a 2-night stay, so we decided to splash the cash. Some $40 1-star, 1-ply, no-tell motel underneath an Interstate exit ramp was not going to satisfy!

Our address in Savannah

The American South is synonymous with hospitality, charm and elegance. The original Savannah B&B on Chatham Square provided all this and more in abundance.

Unique among American cities, Savannah sprawls across an intricate grid of nearly two dozen squares, the oldest of which date from its founding in 1733. Gordon Row, a line of tall Federalist terraces built in the 1850s, overshadows the southeast corner of Chatham Square and at 117 West Gordon Street is one of Savannah's first B&Bs. Its generic name dates back to the days when it was THE Savannah B&B, before the historic core of the city began being restored.

When I booked through Expedia, I went for the most... er... budget-friendly option on offer and even then a small room in the rafters was the most I've ever paid for overnight accommodation.

On arrival, we were told our first choice was off-limits, so we'd been moved to the Oriental Suite. Oh, those magic words that put a thrill into every budget traveller's heart, an upgrade!

True to its name, the suite boasted a number of Far Eastern features including lacquered panels of storks, gilded dragons and Buddha.


Dominated by a four-poster bed piled high with silk cushions, the room had one bare brick wall with the rest painted in a bright burgundy. A ceiling fan hung from the beamed ceiling, while the fireplace was home to a vase full of grass fronds.



It was exceedingly lovely, but on closer inspection the fittings didn't quite live up to the pricetag. The bathroom floor was cheap lino, the taps and bath were bog standard and there were some rough edges to the finishes. The TV reception was terrible and there was no view outside except of tree branches, but who comes to Savannah to watch used car adverts and stare out the window??

People with higher standards might expect more for their money, but we had no complaints and loved our stay here.

Check-in was friendly, fast and informative. Because of our 2-night stay we were giving a free parking pass for the car. There's a PC to check your emails, so 21st century travellers are well catered for in 19th century surroundings.

Each afternoon they have free refreshments like iced tea, freshly-baked cakes and other treats (plus wine and cheese on the weekends).

Breakfasts were big with plenty of choice. The menu varied by the day and during our stay we enjoyed eggs, bacon, fresh fruit, fluffy American biscuits and French toast. We had a chance to sample those famous Southern grits (once discovered, never forgotten, nor eaten again). For dining there was a shaded balcony overlooking the rear courtyard garden as well as the grand dining room with views over the square.

Despite being a bit of a distance from the riverfront with its lively nightlife, there is plenty to see and do close by, such as Forsyth Park.

Mercer House, which is 'the' house from 'The Book'...


...is a minute's walk away in the next square over. We also found some wonderful eateries and nightstpots nearby which I'll review in future posts.

Take the tip and pay a call to the Savannah B&B on your trip! It's quite the charmer.

Next time...strolling the squares of Savannah.