Madrid one more time 15

The fascist dictator General Franco left one admirable legacy to Spain: the cheap three-course lunch. Come midday and practically every eating establishment in the country advertises their menu del dia, a filing lunch with wine on the side.

There were many different restaurants competing for our attention when we left Toledo's cathedral and we chose one that offered a bit of shade on a pedestrian street. This provided plenty of people-watching opportunities while we enjoyed our long lunch.

To start we had a green salad with plenty of sweet sun-ripened tomatoes and bread on the side.

For the main course we had a thick pork stew with garden peas, spiced with smoked paprika.

Dessert was only a pot of ice cream and the white wine accompanying the meal was a bit astringent, but for €11 a head it was a bargain.

Around the corner we found the church of Santo Tome which is famous for its massive painting by El Greco showing the Count of Orgaz’s funeral. It’s one of his more accessible and cohesive works.

Certainly his largest!

Again, no photos were allowed so I’ve had to find these images elsewhere.

The painting dominates the church, covering the first wall you see as soon as you enter. The rest of the small church is surprisingly plain, but with a few interesting details like a modest painted altar.