What about Whitby? 4

Some 120 years ago while standing in the churchyard on this wind-blown clifftop, Bram Stoker gazed down to the wreck of a Russian ship on the rocks below his perch. Surrounded by crumbling gravestones, Stoker imagined what might have caused the wreck. He envisioned an empty ship, abandoned by her crew, blown ashore in a fierce gale. The local townsfolk only find boxes of earth for cargo on board. Some recall seeing an enormous dog leaping from the wreckage.

And so Count Dracula arrives in Whitby, making his home here in one of the graves next to St Mary's Church.

Despite only existing in the pages of a Victorian novel, people still come decades later to explore one of Britain's most atmospheric churchyards. It's such a popular place of pilgrimage for Goths that signs are posted which forbid people posing next to the graves for photos, which seems a bit mean.

St Mary's church looks a bit forlorn, appearing rather stumpy compared to the ruined abbey next door and a bit lost amid all the headstones (many sailors and fishermen have been lost in the rough seas, judging by the anchors carved into their grave markers).

It turns out to be rather charming and sweet inside, at least when the sun is shining and the white woodwork is illuminated.

Almost all available space is taken up by boxed-in pews, some of which were reserved for prominent families who had small coal stoves installed to keep off the chill.

The church tower dates back to 1110 (the oldest parts of British churches tend to be these rounded arches),

but most of the interior is Georgian, hence the plain walls, whitewashed woodwork and near absence of stained glass.

There are still plenty of features to seek out, like the ear trumpets affixed to the back of the pulpit so the deaf wife of one of the vicars could listen to the sermons. It's these fluted pipes running up the back.

Back outside and the cheery motto on the sundial advises that 'Our days pass like a shadow.'

Which to me sounds like an invitation for a pint of beer if there ever was! Next time let's see where to eat and drink in town. Click back soon.