Loitering with intent in Lisbon 9

When your feet are beat and the cobbles are making you feel hobbled, be sure to hop on one of Lisbon's trams that trundle up and down the many hills of the city. There are a total of five lines threading through the city streets, the most famous of these being route 28 (the number being a relic from the days when there were over two dozen routes). The most narrow and steepest streets can only be navigated by small but nimble vintage trams, some of which are literally museum pieces, many of which imported from the USA.

The first few days of our visit to Lisbon coincided with national holidays in both Portugal and Spain, so the city centre streets were busy with tourists and every tram we saw go past was full to bursting. One evening after most of the crowds had gone we attempted to board one of the number 28 trams. Even on a November midweek evening there were more than 50 people queuing up for it and although the trams were empty as they pulled up to our stop, it took about a half hour to board.

The trams are notorious for their pickpockets as the vehicles can become overcrowded and people are busy hanging out the window taking photos. Actually, I wouldn't recommend hanging out too far because the trams run surprisingly fast and pass close enough to parked cars, shopfronts and light posts you could reach out and touch them (probably losing a couple of fingers in the process). I suggest you keep your fingers on your wallet or handbag!

We didn't see much on our first brief tram ride because we were running short of supplies at the flat and were keeping our eyes peeled for a shop that was open. We hopped off at the first mini market that came into view so we could stock up on essentials. It turned out to be a nice enough neighbourhood with lots of shops and cafes, plus a church I thought I recognised. We walked out front and sure enough it was the large church we could see from our flat's living room. The open-air balcony outside the church was packed with dozens of people admiring the view.

We had stumbled upon one of the city's prime sunset-watching spots, and the sunset that evening was a beaut, by turns pink...

 gold...

and vermilion.

We could even see our towels drying outside our flat's window!

In addition to the antique trams, there are a number of funiculars (or elevadores) which whisk visitors up particularly steep hills. We happened upon one of these after admiring the panorama from the viewpoint at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara with its fountain and amazing views of the castle.

We stepped around the corner just as the Elevador da Gloria pulled up to the square. While we waited on the driver we noticed these newlyweds having their photo taken.

Much the same size as a vintage tram, with slatted wooden floors and polished benches on either side, the Gloria funicular was an elegant way to descend to the main Restauradores square, allowing us to handily alight next to a sex shop (at least that's what I assumed the red neon kicking legs signified).

Another vintage form of transport, the Elevador da Santa Justa, is a wrought-iron lift built by a student of Eiffel.

The lift itself is currently not running, but if you are already in the hilltop district of Bairro Alto (literally 'the upper town') it's worthwhile to walk out onto the observation deck at the top of the structure just to take in the view of the castle and cathedral.

All rides on trams and funiculars require that you pay on board, either by cash or by showing your travel pass which is also good for trips on the bus or underground.

There are sleek modern trams which snake along the city streets as well, although these keep mainly to the flat and are more useful for commuters, not tourists. One exception is route 15 out to Belem, the original city harbour a couple miles west of the city centre.

The occasional vintage tram runs along the route as well and by chance we caught one of these for our first trip out to Belem. Click back soon to hear about this jaunt to a district which just as famous for its landmark architecture as its pastries!