Hadrians Wall Country 6: Chesters Roman Fort

Back downhill from Housesteads, it was time again to catch the AD 122 bus heading eastbound. The sky was clearing and the summer sun was burning through at last, but I was a bit depressed by the lack of good light I'd had so far on this trip. Even a sunny day does not necessarily mean good photo opportunities, especially at midday when there aren't many shadows and colours are bleached out.

Chesters Roman Fort was only a few miles down the road, but the landscape changed quickly from exposed grassy moorland to enclosed glades and wooded riversides. Chesters guarded the Roman bridge over the north branch of the River Tyne.

From this map you can see the river crossing and you'll notice a country house now overlooks the site. The house is the ancestral home of the Claytons. After buying the estate in 1796, the family patriarch treated the Roman fortress in his garden as a bit of a nuisance which was levelled out and grassed over, with whatever statues and carvings that turned up being tucked away into his private collection. His son John (born 1792) took great interest in these old stones and in later years he took time off from his law practice and position as town clerk for Newcastle to study the local Roman history in more detail.

John Clayton literally put Hadrians Wall on the map. Recognising its importance and realising how much of it had been lost to vandals and scavengers, he set about buying land along the route in order to survey it, excavate it and preserve it. It is thanks to his efforts we can all appreciate such a well-preserved section stretching between Chesters and Housesteads.

He worked on digs well into his 90s, recovering some spectacular statues which are on view at the Chesters museum. Altarpieces, pottery, plus bronze and iron relics are also on view.

Outside and the site has a fantastic riverbank position, which inspired this short videoclip.

One of the best preserved sections of the fort is its bath house, which I was stood overlooking when filming the clip.

Some experts say these niches would have sheltered statues.

The main headquarters buildings still has some of its courtyard flagstones in place and you can clearly see how the underfloor heating operated in the commander's house. Hot air from a fire would circulate around these columns which would have supported the floor.

Sandwiches, ice creams and snacks are served in a cabin nearby where we had lunch. Back out on the main road while waiting to catch the bus I saw this beautiful tree.

Next stop, the abbey town of Hexham!