The Georgia coastline

Leaving Savannah at last, we headed south for Florida along the scenic route (US Highway 17). This took us through quiet countryside past a couple of historic churches, an exclusive island retreat and a backwoods barbecue shack.

Not far outside Savannah is the small town of Midway, home to a Congregational Church built in 1792. Two generals who led American troops during the Revolutionary War are buried in the nearby cemetery and although the church was shut it was a pleasant spot to stretch our legs.

Further down the road was another roadside church, far more modest but just as attractive in the raking late afternoon light. I can't recall the name of the nearest town, but it was somewhere further down the coast, near Darien.

Once past Brunswick we made a quick detour to see Jekyll Island, a remote retreat that charges a $3 toll for access. In 1887 the entire island was bought for the exclusive use of America's wealthiest aristocrats where the likes of the Pulitzers, Macys, Vanderbilts and Rockefellers would spend their winters.

Their palatial 'cottages' in the designated historic district can be toured by horse-drawn carriage.

At this time of day though we only had time to enjoy the sunset.

Did someone say it was time to eat?? Luckily we were only a few miles from a barbecue shack, the famous GA Pig. The luxuries of Jekyll Island felt a million miles away as soon as we entered the dark woods and followed Highway 17 inland. A couple miles after passing a hitchhiking banjo player (kidding), a fiddling pig beckoned us into a muddy car lot.

What was this, the wood shed for the Bates Motel? Stepping up to the shack, we half-expected someone in a pigskin mask to rip the door open and come after us with a chainsaw. Maybe the hand-scrawled sign NO Camera's Inside meant there'd be no evidence of our disappearance?

Inside were a few wobbly tables lined with wooden benches. No chainsaws, but there was only one other diner at this time of night. He said he was on his way to see his father in Florida on a 20-hour drive from the Great Lakes. He'd been driving back and forth for 10 years and always stopped at the GA Pig for what he said was the best food the entire way.

We had to agree once our open pork sandwiches came out on toasted buns with baked beans, coleslaw and potato salad. I could enthuse about the subtleties of the smoked meat and the zest of the spices, but food this simple and delicious can't be put in words. Just make sure you pull off at the Highway 17 eastbound exit the next time you're driving down Interstate 95.

A couple of happy piggies!

The next stage of our trip was through northeast Florida and I wrote entries for Fernandina Beach and St Augustine awhile back. If you've not already read about our helicopter ride, the alligators, a plantation, the white sandy beaches, plus a terrific brewpub that we found in one of America's oldest towns, then click here.

Then join me back here for a trip through the Florida boonies to see the Suwannee River, some swamps and a family of manatees!