Midnight in the Garden... Savannah 4

Walking around Savannah is a treat. The abundance of squares buzz with tour groups, students, joggers and cyclists. Pedestrians are rewarded with the scent of flowers and the sight of Spanish moss, instead of car fumes and and bumper to bumper traffic.

Everywhere you look are soaring church steeples, towering oak trees and massive houses - some of which are in immaculate condition, a few a bit frayed, others long gone and replaced (not always sympathetically, either). In fact, there were quite a number of empty lots and ugly modern buildings which made us realise how much had been lost before the local historic preservation movement took hold.

Compared to Charleston, Savannah looked nowhere near as lovely, but felt far more lively. Shops, eateries and drinking holes are dotted amid the dwellings which make the place feel more lived-in and accessible.

It was a shame our one full day in Savannah was marred by me having a migraine and the sky being overcast (in fact, the storm sirens sounded as we were in the art gallery and I had a vision of us clutching at canvasses to keep them from blowing away if the roof was ripped off).

The morning of our last day was filled with brilliant sunshine, so after breakfast in the dining room overlooking the square we headed out for one last look around town.

Back in the car, we drove out to Bonaventure Cemetery and wandered amongst the monuments near the river. It didn't seem to bear much similarity to 'The Book' but we found Johnny Mercer's bench and admired plenty of statuary.

From there we drove through Thunderbolt (great name!) and found the long stretch of an oak-lined avenue which lead up to the ruins of Wormsloe Plantation. All that remains are the foundations and a few tabby walls (the local cement made from seashells). The ruins enjoy a pleasant riverside setting and the surrounding woods are a pleasant spot to soak up the fresh air and sunshine.

Back in Savannah we called in at the Firefly Cafe, a recommended eatery near the B&B which was jammed with the lunch crowd. We nabbed the last table and sat down for bowls of corn chowder. We followed with sandwiches, mine was roasted veg and goats cheese served with a pasta salad while Christian had the corned beef and sauerkraut reubens. It was all fresh and delicious, just what we needed before hitting the road again.

Next up, Georgia's sea islands and the best barbecue of the trip!