Midnight in the Garden... Savannah 3

Approaching Savannah from the north, it is necessary to cross the broad Savannah River and that means tackling this huge bridge...

...which felt like driving up a mountainside, it was that steep. It wasn't long before we were on Georgia soil, pulling off the main road and negotiating the tree-lined squares.

The squares means there are few direct routes through the historic core of the city, which keeps the traffic slow and the streets quiet. If you're interested, Forrest Gump told his life story while sat on a bench in Chippewa Square. But we were more interested in finding some places to eat and drink!

First stop was almost next door to our B&B, at the Crystal Beer Parlor. We perched at the bar for a couple pints of ice cold ale made by an Atlanta outfit called Sweetwater. It was a quiet night so the barman played chess at one end of the bar. Blues music was playing on the speakers and the lines had interesting old B&W photos of the city to admire. If we had eaten by then, we could have stayed all night! It sounds like the place has closed recently, but if you're in town have a look to see if new owners have snapped it up because the place has quite a history to it.

On to the Six Pence, a 'British pub' with royal memorabilia, Toby jugs, Welsh flags and all the other tat you never see in a real English pub. The place featured in the film Something to Talk About. Their 'British beer' amounted to Guinness (which is Irish), Old Speckled Hen (you wouldn't believe the number of chickens killed to make it) and something billed on the menu as 'New Castle' Brown Ale (it's Newcastle, folks). Instead of having a taste of home, we had a Sam Adams and some disgusting, flavourless muck called Killians Irish Red. Eavesdropping the other tourists was great fun though, like a chap who'd been to China and announced: 'Those Communists get things done.'

Finally on to the Moon River brewpub in Savnnah's lively riverfront district. Downtown was busy and the Moon River was packed to the rafters, but we were taken to a table immediately (most people were bellied up to the bar). We had the quarter-pint sampler tray of all six of their ales, wheat beer and cider. The food was simple but delicious (barbecue pork, chicken sandwich with Swiss chese, frie/chips and fresh onion rings). Throw in some live music and it was a grand night out.

And best of all we were able to walk home without tackling any sky-high bridges. Take the tip and go to Moon River for a sip!