The rain in Spain: A day out to El Escorial

Madrid is perfectly situated for a number of daytrips to places like Toledo, Segovia and Aranjuez. When the summer heat of the city becomes too much to bear, a trip to the cooler mountains can provide some relief from the city's baking pavements.

One problem: our visit to Madrid in early June 2009 coincided with a freak cold snap. Optimistically slathered in sunblock and sporting new shorts and sandals, we stepped out of the hotel one morning to feel a chill wind whip around our ankles. It was if we hadn't left Manchester, but we were still keen on a trip outside town to El Escorial, one of Spain's great royal palaces.

During the hour-long train journey, a helpful monitor inside the carriage displayed the time, the name of the next stop and the plummeting temperature. Outside, clouds thickened on the horizon.

A bus outside Escorial's train station took us up the steep hillside to the centre of town (€1.25 per person each way). For such a popular tourist destination (comparable to Windsor Castle or Versailles), there was a dearth of eateries, so instead of a late breakfast we headed straight into the palace.

I say 'palace' - El Escorial was in fact designed as a monastery by King Philip II who in 1557 began building on a windswept plateau named after the tailings or scoria from nearby iron mines. Built from the local grey granite, only the sheer size of this grim complex gives any hint to the staggering amount of wealth pouring out of Spain's New World possessions at the time.

Whereas most other Catholic architecture is known for its gilt and ostentatious ornamentation, El Escorial was built during the days of the counter-Reformation and resembles a fortress. For a royal home, the state rooms were dull. We mainly wanted to see the collection of art by the likes of Titian, Ribera, Veronese and Bosch, but many of the paintings on display were copies or second-rate canvasses.

We were also curious to see the basilica, the only space inside with much decoration, but this was off limits for renovations. A shame they were still charging the full admission price, as if everything was still accessible. Outside and the clouds threatened rain, so my photos are rubbish and we didn't stroll the gardens.

We found this restaurant nearby advertising a 3-course lunch for 10 euro. The terrace overlooked a pleasant garden where birds darted about, enjoying better and more substantial food compared to what we were served.

The salad for starters was a mixture of tinned and defrosted vegetables, doused in a thin oil dressing that was either an exercise in classic Spanish simplicity or just plain impoverished. The roast chicken amounted to what appeared to be the legs off a roadkill squirrel, the drumsticks were so long and devoid of meat. I've chewed on leather that was more supple and nourishing. This was served with plain salad leaves and greasy chips. We left 20 euros out of pocket and as hungry as we had arrived, not bothering with the coffee or sweet for the 3rd course.

Not long after arriving at the train station a downpour hit and we couldn't wait to return to Madrid. A couple stops from the capital and the sun burst out. A guitar player hopped on board and began singing 'Quizas, quizas, quizas' (Perhaps, perhaps, perhaps). Perhaps we shouldn't have bothered!