Laid out nearly 400 years ago as the personal countryside haven for the royal family at the time, the park became the city's property in the 1800s and Madrid has since grown all around what is often called its 'lungs'.
Tree-lined avenues cross immaculate lawns and lead visitors around a boating pond, monuments and fountains. Although green and lush, it is not a tranquil spot, especially at the central lake where stalls sell sweets, puppeteers entertain the children and women tell fortunes in return for some loose change. The broad paths attract cyclists, joggers and families pushing prams all out enjoying the fresh air.
Despite the crowds you shouldn't have a problem finding a shady spot for a picnic. Be sure to stretch your legs and seek out highlights of the park like the 'crystal palace' which houses art exhibitions. Nearby is an artifical grotto with a tunnel leading underneath a waterfall.
Art installations and book fairs often line the paths.
One of the odd features of the park is a memorial to Lucifer, said to be the only public statue dedicated to the Devil, commemorating the moment when the angel fell from heaven.
A host of demons spew water under his feet.
Nearby was a gorgeous rose garden, full of scented blossoms.
Unfortunately I'm no nature photographer, but trust me, Parque del Retiro is a magnificent spot and the most impressive gardens I've ever visited. Take a tip and make the trip!
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